DIY Tub Repair
You got a tub repair to do and don’t know how to start the project? Well, you have come to the right place.
Dealing with tub repair problem, such as leakage is not that complicated, in fact, anyone can do it, but, you must first ask yourself the following question.
What is the problem? Is it easy to access it? Can be done by one person? Do I have the right tools and all material to accomplish the task? How long it will take me to get it done?
Let’s assume that the tub is leaking through the drain in the bottom of the tub, what can be done to solve the problem? What to do first?
Diagnosing The Problem:
Most people assume that just because there is water coming from a certain place, the problem will be right there and, they starting breaking drywall, sealing and whatever else is on the way.
If you think like that, stop, don’t rush into conclusion, take your time to properly diagnose the problem, this will save you time and money especially if it has to do with tub repair.
If you take time to check everything before hand, you will effectively identify the real problem and will have the right approach to solve it.
For example: if the tub is leaking through the seal around the drain and, you notice that the drain is really rusty, you probably need a major tub repair which will involve replacing the whole tub plumbing.
What About Space?
Now that you identified the real problem, you should also know how much space you will need to do the tub repair and the problem solved.
One of the main components involving tub repair is space, without it, things can get really complicated.
Most bathtub plumbing are hidden behind the wall which means that section of the drywall or ceiling will likely be cut out first in order expose the plumbing.
On older homes, most tubs will have an access built on the wall for access to the water supplies and parts of the tub drain plumbing, however, the p-trap or drum trap will be located in the bottom of the tub, which will in most case not be of easy access.
House that don’t have finished basement provide easier access to the rest of the tub plumbing without any complications, but if basements are already finished, then, you will have to do what it says in the previous paragraph.
How Easy Is It To Fix?
Now that you identified that the real problem and have expose the defective or broken plumbing, it is time to start with the tub repair of the actual problem. But how easy is it to work on a bathtub repair?
Replacing the whole a stop waste and overflow is usually a job for two people. Why? Normally, when installing the whole system, it will be required that one person hold the parts under the tub while the other person needs to tight the other pieces of the puzzle from inside the tub.
If you attempt to fix the water leakage by yourself and you have never done it before, you will probably spend several hours doing that and, in the end; you will realize that you need some help.
If you have a helper, the tub repair will probably take less than one hour to get it done; but it could take several hours if you are doing it alone,therefore, don’t try to fix it all by yourself.
Replacing A Tub Drain:
Before starting the
tub repair
project, make sure that you have the right tools and parts to get the job done right at the first time. So, make sure that you have a drain remover and a pop-up plug wrenches, you can find it in most plumbing supply stores.
If you can’t find the right tools, you should be able to remove the drain with a pair of slip-joint pliers and a screwdriver.
Slide the pliers’ handles down the drain, past the X-shape metal arms or crosshairs inside, then put the screwdriver between the handles and use it like a lever to unscrew the drain.
If the crosshair is broken, you will have to use a drain key to remove the drain.
p.s.: Don't make the tub repair a project more complixated than already is, be careful when removing the drain, you don’t want to the waste shoe, which is the bottom part of the drain; otherwise, you will have to replace the whole system.
Things To Consider:
Before you start with your tub repair, you will need: a pair of channel locks, screwdriver, Phillips screwdriver, pipe cutter or plastic cutting saw, new waste-and-overflow , abs cement, section of abs pipe (2” or 1 ½”) depending of your home plumbing, Glue p-trap, Teflon tape, female or male adapter, ho hub, wrench and, abs fittings as needed.
The size of pipe and parts will depend on the size of the existing plumbing, however, you might have to reduce or increase size accordingly.
P.s.: If you are planning to buy all the overflow parts separately, you will spend a lot more money that if you buy the whole waste and overflow as a combo package.
Below you will find the approximate pricing of each individual part of a waste and overflow, the price list below does not include the p-trap, piping, fittings and abs cement, which would be an additional $35.00.
All the parts individually would probably cost you almost $100 while if you buy the combo, you will most likely to spend around $25.00 to $45.00.
Now, let’s proceed with the actual waste and overflow installation process. And let’s assume that everything is already exposed and ready to be replaced.
Replacing Waste & Overflow:
1 – Make sure that the flooring under the tub is protected and that you have a bucket in case of water leakage.
2 – If the tub piping is galvanized and you have a p-trap or drum trap, you will need to first to cut it out and, for that, you will need an electric saw. Make sure that you leave enough room between the tub and the pipe where you plan to connect the new plumbing.
3 – Once the old p-trap or drum trap has been removed, it is time to remove the old waste-and-overflow and you start this process by removing the drain inside the tub with the dumbbell wrench.
4 – Unscrew the two screws from the face plate and remove the place and the bucket and rod assembly, the waste elbow and everything else. Clean the tub drain really well, removes the old gasket and putting.
5–It is time to start the new installation: we will begin with the new drain inside the tub and waste elbow. You might need a second hand to help you with this step also, you might need to cut section of the tail piece to proper adjust all the parts together.
6 – Connect the upper section of the waste and overflow gasket and bracket and, everything between the top and the bottom part of the drain, this process should be straight forward and it will only take a 10 to 15 minutes to get it done.
7 – Now, it is time to install the p-trap, piping and fittings between the new waste and overflow and the existing drain pipe. Do not glue anything until you have all the parts properly measured, cut and tested, you don’t want to waste anything.
8 – Once you have all parts ready, it is time to glue them together, this is also a process that must be done, step by step, just a tip, leave the bottom piece of the p-trap to be the last one to be glued with the rest of the piping.
9 – Now that every is connected and glued, allow at least 5 to
10 minutes for the abs cement to dry, meanwhile, go ahead and
install the bucket and rod assembly and screw the face place with the overflow.
10 –It is time to test the whole system, fill the tub halfway while holding the water and, then, open the drain and let it drain, check for possible leaks, if no leaks occur you have accomplished your task.
Just one last thing dough, make sure that the bucket and rod assembly is properly adjusted so that you can hold and release water as you need it, otherwise, you will have to remove the rod and adjust it until it works as the way it should be.
Tub Repair Overflow parts:
1 – Overflow gasket ($3.99)
2 – Overflow bracket (2.77)
3 – Triplever plate ($3.98 - $14.93)
4 – Pair of screws (chrome or brass) ($2.89 -$4.99)
5 – Nut ($0.59)
6 – Clevis Assembly ($3.49)
7 – Bucket and Rod Assembly ($11.99 - $14.99)
8 – Grid Strainer (chrome or brass) ($4.97 -$11.97)
9 – Waste Plug Assembly (chrome or brass) ($9.88 - $24.95)
10 – Washer ($2.69)
11 – 1 ½” Slip Joint Ring ($0.22)
12 – Chrome Tailpiece ($8.29)
13 – 1 ½” Slip Joint Nut (plastic or Brass) ($0.99 - $1.99)
14 – Waste Elbow (sweated together) ($12.95)
15 – Dumbell Wrench ($12.59 - $13.75)
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